1998
by Jan Olson
When the MCA Twin Ports chapter schedule includes a Wisconsin destination, we nearly always convene our paddle at the Perkins on Highway 53 in Superior. This location is one of convenience, but more, it smacks of sweet rolls with sticky frosting. Our group, including kayaks and one canoe, was heading toward Highway 13. Here we would turn slightly north and east along the south shore of Lake Superior, if that makes any sense, to the sea caves of Squaw Bay. The twisty turny drive takes the adventurer through farm lands and woods with occasional views of the lakeshore.
Squaw Bay is located about 1 1/2 hours from Duluth/Superior and just past the small lakeside town of Cornucopia. The caves are a favorite destination for paddlers that like the challenge of Lake Superior in combination with paddling into the crevices and cracks of carved sandstone.
We chose this day to paddle because of favorable conditions on the lake. Even skilled kayakers would be foolish to attempt this adventure in other than calm waters; there are nearly no opportunities to beach your boat along these cliffs should the weather turn foul. Since Lake Superior is known for its extreme changes we always consult a NOAA weather radio before venturing out.
A short distance from Cornucopia is Myers Road which dead ends at a parking lot with porta-potty and beach access. The beach is reached by climbing down a stairway. Having paddling friends along to get boats down and back up the stairs can be very helpful. Our group hauled five kayaks and one nearly 90 pound Discovery this day.
Vessels loaded and the required snacks readily available we set out. The waters along the shore were clear and cool. Perhaps three quarters of a mile from the put in the stark contrast to beach and woods began. The sandstone cliffs, pinkish tan in color, loomed upward pitted and gouged, sanded and smoothed by the wind and waves of Lake Superior. Above us rose fifty feet of stone, and to the side of us were arches, caves and deep crevices.
We paddled around a wall of sandstone and turned back to the southwest, revealing a long crevice reaching toward the interior of rock. Sunlight from a high opening above illuminated the walls. Dark ferns and moss in varying shades of green covered portions of the rock and, looking up, one could get a glimpse of birch overhanging the opening. We took turns paddling deep within the narrowing crevice, putting aside paddle and pushing our way along with our hands. I stopped just short of lodging my kayak permanently into the ever narrowing fissure. As one pokes along looking into every nook and cranny, the desire to enter each cave overtakes you. You simply must guide your kayak into those dark reaches, whatever the size and shape. The beauty of kayaking is that you can enter many places impenetrable by canoe. Our canoeing friends had to remain outside of some very low caves, while the rest of us squeezed into those dark recesses.
Squaw Bay caves are both mammoth as well as mouse sized. You may compress yourself enough to enter one, only to find a dead end the length of your kayak. Or you may be surprised when, upon squishing yourself down enough to penetrate the unknown, the interior opens up to accommodate not only you, but your whole paddling party as well.
Stone arches are numerous. We found them on the interior of caves and carved through the exterior surface of the cliffs. No matter where they were, we had to paddle beneath them, marveling at the curvilinear lines so well defined by nature's architects. As we continued along Squaw Bay we changed direction slightly. Water that had been gently rolling now changed in to what one seasoned sailor called "slop." Although the waves were not large, they slapped us from every possible direction. Our canoeing friends were encouraged to start back lest they get caught in a non-extricatable situation. One kayak turned with them, the rest of us continued on for a short distance to a wide opening in the rock. Here we could paddle through three arches, one leading us into the cave, one inside and one that took us back out to the open sea.
I don't know about the rest of my fellow paddlers, but I caught myself oohing and ahing during our entire 2 1/2 hour adventure. Glad to be paddling even the most makeshift of kayaks on this six mile round trip, I was thankful for the fine companions, first rate day and the alluring wonder of Squaw Bay.
For more information you may wish to contact Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, Rt. 1, Box 4, Bayfield WI 54814; phone 715-779-3397. Exploring Superior Country by Craig Charles gives basic information about the area and is a fine guide to Lake Superior's shoreline.
